Lifting and Firming Aging Skin

What woman hasn’t secretly wondered how she’d look without crow’s feet, sagging skin, or other signs that tell the world she’s aging? Every year, millions of women try to turn back the clock with cosmetic surgery or a skin-improvement procedure.

Today, a wide variety of noninvasive and minimally invasive procedures make it easier than ever to minimize the effects of aging without the trauma, expense, and “down time” required for a facelift. The key is getting an early start.

“Combating aging is an ongoing process. By doing multiple small things, we can slow facial aging before it gets out of hand,” says Weill Cornell facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon Kate McCarn, MD.

WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW

Treatments for facial aging include:

➤ Wrinkles: Acid peels, lasers, dermabrasion, Botox injections

➤ Lost volume: Facial fillers

➤ Sagging skin: Surgical facelift, superficial, skin-tightening facelift, ultrasound facelift

Wrinkle removers

Sun exposure causes collagen to break down, causing fine lines, wrinkles, and blotches. Acid peels, lasers, dermabrasion—even medical-grade sandpaper—are used to treat these problems. These procedures harm the skin, and, as it heals, it tightens and becomes smoother.

Of course, sunscreen can prevent wrinkles from forming in the first place. “You should apply an SPF 30 product with UVA and UVB protection every day, regardless of the weather,” says Dr. McCarn.

Frown lines and crow’s feet may be caused by muscle contractions that crease delicate skin over and over again. Botox injections can prevent the muscle from contracting, thus making the wrinkle invisible. If Botox is used early enough, it can prevent the crease from growing deeper.

Uplifting procedures

Dr. McCarn compares sagging eye, face, and neck skin to a bathing suit that has been washed one too many times. “You can add volume by gaining weight, or open a seam, remove some fabric, and pull it tighter, but you can’t restore elasticity,” she explains.

Lower and upper eye lifts and face and neck lifts are the gold standard for older women with sagging skin. More recently, “lifestyle lifts,” “lunch-hour lifts,” and other minimally invasive skin-tightening procedures that don’t touch the underlying muscle and tissue have become the rage. Although the pain and recovery time are a fraction of what is experienced in a true surgical lift, when the underlying muscle and tissue aren’t addressed, the results simply don’t last.

Plumper is smoother

Injectable filler products, such as Juvederm, Radiesse, Sculptra, and Restylane, are used to re-place facial fat that disappears with age, creating a plumper, softer-looking face. The products are similar, and all have excellent track records. Allergic reactions and infections are rare when injected by a qualified plastic surgeon or dermatologist.

“Go with the one your doctor suggests, because he or she will have experience using it,” says Dr. McCarn.

Since too much filler can produce an artificial appearance, Dr. McCarn often uses filler as a complement to, rather than instead of, surgery. “Combining face-plumping with a small tuck produces a better result than either a facelift or filler alone, and with no down time. There’s no need to take time away from work or social engagements,” she says.

Latest may not be greatest

Advertising is designed to target women’s weaknesses, but don’t be misled. No cosmetic procedure or product is right for everyone.

Take Ulthera, for example, a procedure that uses ultrasound to heat the deepest layers of the skin, causing it to tighten. “One-third of patients will have a great result, one-third will have a so-so result, and one-third will wonder why they bothered,” says Dr. McCarn.

If you are considering a newer procedure, she advises asking to see photos of patients before the procedure as well as six and 12 months afterward. Since results beyond that time frame may be unavailable, have realistic expectations. “It’s impossible to guess how long results will last until these procedures build a track record,” says Dr. McCarn.

How should you begin?

If you’re thinking about having a cosmetic procedure, start by seeking more than one opinion from doctors who offer a variety of options. It’s particularly important if you are considering a treatment that utilizes a device, such as a laser or ultrasound, rather than a product.

“Devices are costly, and doctors naturally want to recoup their investment,” says Dr. McCarn. “It would be wise to choose a physician who has access to several different devices and techniques, so the treatment can be tailored to your needs. A doctor should not recommend the same procedure for everyone.”

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